Archive for 11. February 2008

Risk-taking instinctive

by Erik Monasterio

People drawn to high-risk adventure sports can blame inherited personality traits – and may have cause to be grateful that the same instincts don’t draw them into more anti-social pursuits.

Adventure sports such as mountaineering, kayaking, rock climbing, mountain biking and base jumping are increasingly popular.

These risk-taking sports court significant dangers and attract individuals who are prepared to gamble their personal safety, and at times their life, in search of a rush of excitement or an unusual accomplishment.

Paradoxically these sports have increased in popularity at a time when modern societies have become obsessed with risk-avoidance and risk- management.

Could it be that the bombardment of ACC warning signs highlighting the risks of everything from falling off a curb to wandering cattle, the current culture of blame, hand rails, safety bars and compulsory helmet use have contributed to this trend?

There is growing evidence to suggest that the propensity to take risks is strongly determined by the chemistry of the brain – “hard-wired”.

Risk-taking genes and exploratory behaviours are likely to have conferred specific advantages in the early (hunter and gatherer) stages of human evolution, and therefore may have become more common through natural selection.

Despite the changed social environments these primitive instincts continue to exert a strong influence, and the modern civilisations that pride themselves on risk-avoidance and predictability may indeed be the recruiting ground of adventure sports people.

Risk- taking or “extreme” sports may well provide socially sanctioned opportunities for the expression of risk-taking instincts.

As a mountaineer and psychiatrist, I have been involved in a number of studies to try to determine whether people who take up adventure sports have unique personalities, and whether biological and genetic factors contribute to their choice of leisure activity.

Also, as New Zealand currently promotes itself as an adventure destination, where “extreme” sports and activities are popular and traded commercially, it is important to determine just how dangerous these sports are.

In a New Zealand-based study of experienced and committed mountaineers, I found that almost half of them had suffered at least one climbing related injury.

Two-thirds of those injured were hospitalised and 20 per cent required more than three months to recover, or were left with long-term health problems. Four years after starting the study there was a 10 per cent death rate (five deaths) – four due to climbing accidents.

Other studies of mountaineers have found similar results. For example, Murray Malcolm from the University of Otago found that the death rate from climbing in the Mount Cook National Park was 5000 times greater than from work-related injuries.

The death rates from climbing on the highest peaks in the park were similar to those of climbers to peaks over 7000m, approximately 4 per cent.

I also found that the personality of climbers was quite different to that of average people. Climbers scored higher in the areas of novelty-seeking and self- directedness and lower on harm-avoidance.

What this suggests is that climbers generally enjoy exploring unfamiliar places and situations. They are easily bored, try to avoid monotony and so tend to be quick- tempered, excitable and impulsive.

They enjoy new experiences and seek out thrills and adventures, even if other people think that they are a waste of time.

When confronted with uncertainty and risk, climbers tend to be confident and relaxed. Difficult situations are often seen by climbers as a challenge or an opportunity.

They are less responsive to danger and this can lead to foolhardy optimism. Climbers also have good self-esteem and self-reliance and therefore tend to be high-achievers.

Base jumping is probably the most dangerous sport in the world and involves parachute jumping from either tall natural features or man- made structures. The parachute is initially closed and is opened after a (short) free fall.

In a study of base jumpers, I also found a high rate of injury– two-thirds of the participants had suffered at least one base jumping accident. Almost all of those injured required hospital treatment and two-thirds needed more than three months to recover, or were left with long-term health problems.

All base jumpers estimated that they had had “near- misses” and all of them had witnessed friends die from the sport. Overall, the personalities of base jumpers were very similar to that of mountaineers.

These findings are similar to those of other studies, which have found that risk-taking sports people score high on the measure of sensation seeking (very similar to novelty- seeking). What this suggests is that biology and genetics do, indeed, play at least a moderate role in determining who will take up adventure sports.

We know that harm- avoidance, novelty-seeking and sensation-seeking are genetically inherited and determined by the levels of a number of brain neurotransmitters, called monoamines. These monoamines (dopamine and serotonin) are chemicals that pass information between lower and higher brain regions.

High novelty-seeking and sensation-seeking are both associated with low levels of dopamine and involvement in risk-taking activities may help to boost the levels of this brain neurotransmitter.

It has also been established that individuals who score high on these measures are at significant risk of developing drug and alcohol addictions and are more frequently involved in reckless behaviours and criminal activities.

High harm-avoidance, which confers a propensity to become anxious or scared in the face of risk or uncertainty, is related to levels of serotonin in the brain. Risk-taking sports people have low levels of harm-avoidance and this may explain why they are able to tolerate risk without becoming overwhelmed by fear and anxiety.

In fact, the low levels of harm-avoidance may contribute to a tendency to underestimate danger and therefore may partially account for the high rates of accidents.

The study of risk-taking sportspeople provides interesting and compelling results. Not surprisingly sports, such as mountaineering and base jumping, are associated with a significant risk of injury and death.

People who choose to take up these sports appear to have a unique biological make-up and these differences in brain chemistry help to explain why they choose to put themselves in peril.

Although the risks are not insignificant, risk-taking instincts may well be better off channelled into adventure sports, where experience and training can minimise danger, than to drug addictions and anti-social or criminal behaviours.

Erik Monasterio is a Bolivian/New Zealand medical doctor and mountaineer, specialising in forensic psychiatry.

Ice climbing enthusiasts slip under the radar

BY CALEB SHEAFFER

Michael Miscavage knows the best places for ice climbing in the Wyoming Valley, but he’s not talking about any of them. Miscavage, owner of Top of the Slope Ski Shop in Wilkes-Barre, even has a picture of a nearby wall of ice he climbed in 1994, a 200-foot cliff with the intimidating name “The Fang.”

He’s keeping quiet about the locations for two reasons. First, he doesn’t want anyone getting hurt, especially after he heard the recent news.

A New Hope man, Luke Wolfgang, was injured Feb. 2 while ice climbing in the Buttermilk Falls area of Toby Creek, near the rock cut on Route 309 in Courtdale. The rescue effort involved about 60 people from seven West Side fire and rescue departments. The incident publicized a sport that tends to avoid the spotlight.

There is no real reason for ice climbers to seek attention, Miscavage says. People learn of places to climb through word-of-mouth and friends interested in the hobby. It is a sport that takes place under the radar — in areas where few people go, during a time of the year when few people like to be outside.

Also, Miscavage won’t reveal places to ice climb because some are on private property. Often when he ice climbs, he has an agreement with the landowner. You can’t park at these places without the owners knowing you’re there. This season though, Miscavage hasn’t gone ice climbing. The weather has been too warm.

“We haven’t sold as much (ice climbing gear) because the ice hasn’t been that great,” Miscavage said.

According to Frank Slymock, a deputy fire chief in Edwardsville, Wolfgang’s accident occurred because his rope was severed on jagged rocks. Wolfgang fell about 30 to 40 feet, and landed on his feet, like climbers are taught, Slymock said. Wolfgang was taken to Community Medical Center in Scranton, and his injuries were not expected to be life-threatening. Multiple calls this week to Wolfgang’s home went unanswered.

Ice climbers usually use two axes, sturdy boots and metal teeth, called crampons and fangs, attached to the bottom of their boots. Climbers take safety precautions by using rope as an anchor, climbing with friends and wearing a helmet.

Many people who ice climb start by rock climbing, and gradually move to ice climbing. The sports require similar skills, but ice climbers handle tougher terrain and must judge the quality of the ice. People interested in learning to ice climb can expect to spend at least $1,000 for necessary equipment.

“In rock climbing we have a saying, ‘There’s old climbers and there’s bold climbers, but there’s no old bold climbers.’ Limits definitely get pushed, but it’s a sport where you need to have a conservative mindset,” said Brett Simpson, associate director of Quest, an outdoor adventure and recreation program based at Bloomsburg University.

According to Simpson, Quest usually offers classes in ice climbing every year, but didn’t this winter because there isn’t enough ice. This season, Simpson has only done mixed climbing — a combination of ice and rock climbing involving crampons and axes. Mixed climbing is only for advanced climbers, those able to handle changes in terrain.

Simpson only knows a few places to go ice climbing in the Wyoming Valley, and most of them are on the West Side along Route 309. Another spot is at Ricketts Glen State Park, 30 miles north of Bloomsburg and spanning 13,050 acres in Luzerne, Sullivan and Columbia counties. Climbers at Ricketts Glen can face the challenge of the 94-foot Ganoga Falls. For more advanced climbing, experienced ice climbers travel to New York to the Catskills or the Adirondack Mountains.

The sport came easily to Simpson. Originally from Oregon, he began rock climbing in the West, where he climbed more than 2,000 feet. Simpson learned to ice climb with a friend near Noxen. He and his experienced buddy shared equipment and took turns climbing a waterfall.

“You have to deal with the cold and the weather conditions,” Simpson said. “Once you got used to the equipment, and holding things correctly, it wasn’t too bad. Good instruction to start was helpful.”

Terence Daltroff, park manager of Ricketts Glen State Park, said to his knowledge, there have been only one or two ice climbing accidents at the park, and those were both broken legs. Daltroff mainly does more of a hiking form of ice climbing, in which he uses a longer axe and crampons. Rarely does he go on vertical climbs. When he does, it is only to gain respect for the power the mountain has over climbers.

“It does take someone who is willing to be more disciplined and in better shape, more so than other sports,” Daltroff said.

Even the best ice climbers need to double check their safety gear and make sure they don’t strain themselves too much. According to Daltroff, the sport cannot really be classified as dangerous, because those who do it are experienced and cautious.

“I’m a skier with the National Ski Patrol, but I ski and know what I’m doing. Some people might think that’s a daredevil sport,” Daltroff said. “It is the same as driving on the Cross Valley when the weather is bad.”

Miscavage, Simpson and Daltroff all say the same thing: If you plan on learning to ice climb, make sure to take lessons, and when you are learning, test your limits, but not so much that you put yourself in danger.

“You’re pushing yourself, but you’re not pushing yourself to get hurt,” Miscavage says.

GPS-enabled helmet calls for help post-accident

from Engadget Mobile….

We’ve seen some pretty well equipped helmets in our day, but UMass Amherst student Brycen Spencer seems a touch more interested in safety advancements than integrated speakers. His concoction, dubbed the Wireless Impact Guardian (WIG), looks like your average helmet at first glance, but a quick look inside reveals electronics designed to sense an impact, judge if you’re conscious and dial for help if necessary. Essentially, an alarm is triggered upon impact, and if you’re not cohesive enough to disable it after 60 seconds, it automatically rings up 911 and beams out your location via GPS so that medical personnel can get moving. Currently, the device is quite a ways from going commercial, but considering that Mr. Spencer has already invested in a provisional patent, we’d say it’s well on its way.

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